My Copenhagen (Denmark) Travel Guide and Foodie Guide

Copenhagen is a riot of colour, modern architecture and design, and captivating in its Wild West approach to opportunities. Yet it's hard not to fall in love with both. This is my Copenhagen Travel Guide, or how to find the little gems and must-see sites and tastes in this beautiful city.

Copenhagen travel guide: A charming waterfront scene in Copenhagen showcases colorful buildings along the canal. Locals and visitors enjoy the ambiance near outdoor cafes and a bustling food stand, with boats docked nearby under a perfectly clear blue sky.

It's hard to imagine a more perfect city than Copenhagen. Long winding streets full of little boutiques and hipster coffee shops, all gleaming with delicate yeasted pastries in their windows. Rows of bicycles competing for space in the most orderly line, their seats a leather paean to comfort. Colorful homes nestled tightly against one another, adorned with flowerpots jostling for windowsill space.

A view of a canal in Copenhagen, with modern and historic buildings lining both sides. There is a white bridge on the left, calm water, and a blue sky with clouds above—a perfect scene from your travel guide.

A woman stands on a bridge in Copenhagen, smiling with two bicycles beside her. The backdrop features a canal, colorful buildings, and a modern glass structure. It's a sunny day with some clouds—perfect for any travel guide seeking to capture the city's vibrant charm.

A charming street scene reminiscent of a Copenhagen travel guide features cobblestone paving, lined with yellow and beige apartment buildings. A cyclist glides near parked cars as another person stands on the sidewalk. Overhead, streetlights hang from wires against a cloudy sky.

The enclave of Christiania lies in its heart like a gaping wound, a raw explosion of color, graffiti, cannabis, art, and music where misfits rule the day and barter and cash are king. And throughout it all, little canals connect Copenhagen's two parts, its harbor and the Øresund Strait to the east. Let the Copenhagen Travel Guide begin!

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In this Copenhagen travel guide scene, an old, graffiti-covered train car rests on cobblestone tracks in an industrial area. Nearby, a worn concrete structure accompanies a row of parked bicycles against a backdrop of brick buildings under the cloudy Danish sky.

This is my foodie and travel guide to Copenhagen, including my favorite spots. If you've been to Copenhagen, I'd love to hear your thoughts. Just leave a comment below or start a discussion on Facebook orInstagram.

Where we stayed during our Time in Copenhagen

Our first Copenhagen adventure started two months prior when F and I went online in search of affordable accommodations. Unlike Germany, where we had our pick of cute (and less cute) Airbnb, Copenhagen seemed to be a wasteland for Airbnb. There were options, but the few that were downtown were priced so out of our reach that we quickly gave up on the option.

Instead, we chose to stay in the Urban House Copenhagen. It had private rooms for about $120, and which we knew to be clean and quiet from a previous experience. Our room was clean, though sparse, and the check-in procedure was simple.

Getting Around in Copenhagen

A person stands on a bridge, hands raised in celebration, surrounded by the sleek architecture of modern office buildings. Below, a peaceful waterway winds through the scene. The overcast sky casts a gentle glow, while a bike path invites exploration in this Copenhagen travel guide moment.

We also rented a bike for a full day, which turned out to be a great way to experience Copenhagen. What wasn't great was the lack of parking... We had no luck finding street parking and ended up parking in an underground lot.

This experience cost us $84 for 24 hours, a shocking price that made us realize we would have been better off paying $200 for one of the nicer hotels in Copenhagen with a parking spot. If you're planning on traveling to Copenhagen, I strongly advise you to consider parking costs.

Tivoli Gardens Trip During Our Stay in Copenhagen

A festive scene at night captures the magic of Copenhagen, with a grand building adorned in bright lights resembling a palace. In the foreground, a Christmas tree glows with warm, golden lights against the dark sky, perfect for any travel guide exploring holiday wonders.

A whimsical bakery scene reminiscent of a Copenhagen travel guide, where animatronic figures dressed as chefs bake near a large brick oven. Surrounded by barrels and shelves, they work under the glow of hanging lights and greenery, next to a charming red and white striped pole.

A brightly lit Chinese pagoda decorated with colorful lights is reflected in a pond. This picturesque scene, reminiscent of the vibrant landscapes often highlighted in a Copenhagen travel guide, features trees adorned with strings of lights, creating a festive and lively atmosphere.

The first stop on our itinerary we planned in Copenhagen was the magical Tivoli Gardens, which we visited at night. This was one of the most anticipated parts of our trip for me, and I won't exaggerate when I say that it turned out to be one of the most enchanting places I have ever visited.

The shining lights, the Christmas-time decorations, the bakery with the quaint mechanical elves silently doing their work along the walls - all added to a place that felt like it had arisen from my favorite childhood novels. It all came to a perfect ending when we witnessed the light and music display over Tivoli Lake. We didn't get on a single ride, and I barely noticed.

Visiting Høst during our Trip to Copenhagen

A warmly lit restaurant interior with high ceilings and hanging lights, as featured in a Copenhagen travel guide. Diners sit at wooden tables surrounded by large potted plants, creating a cozy atmosphere where groups of people engage in conversation over their meals.

Our big Copenhagen meal was to be at Høst. Specializing in modern Nordic cuisine and set up in a historical red-brick Danish building, Høst is a work of art from its decor to the presentation of its plates. Sitting in the foliage-wrapped garden room and feeling like we were on a picnic in a fairy-filled Danish forest.

Our adventure in Høst began from the first amuse-bouche and continued through nine (!) courses down to the dessert of milk chocolate with cherries. We ordered the five-course $90 menu, making a special note of my gluten-free dietary requirement, and with all the free bites, the inclusion of service (we ended up adding a bit extra because the waiters were so attentive) and the incredible level of taste, it was one of the most affordable meals I've ever had at this caliber.

A plate with black stones is topped with a small serving of food, garnished with greens, reminiscent of a Copenhagen culinary experience. It's placed on a rectangular white surface beside a wine glass, while some text in the background suggests it's an excerpt from a travel guide.

A white bowl on a wooden table contains a dish with green garnish atop pasta, dusted with red seasoning, reminiscent of a culinary gem from a Copenhagen travel guide. Glasses and part of another dish are partially visible around the bowl.

A scallop shell on a bed of stones holds a gourmet dish with green sauce and dark red garnishes, evoking the culinary elegance found in a Copenhagen travel guide. It sits on a wooden table beside wine glasses and cutlery.

A bowl of creamy soup garnished with chopped greens sits on a wooden table, reminiscent of cozy cafes featured in any Copenhagen travel guide, surrounded by glasses and a spoon.

A plated dish in a Copenhagen travel guide showcases fresh greens and microgreens atop a flavorful puree, garnished with aromatic herbs. The elegant setup on a wooden table is surrounded by glasses and fine cutlery, embodying the city's culinary finesse.

Here is our Google review for Host!

"Entering Høst is like stumbling upon your very own Nordic fairytale - enchanting, surprising, full of moss, twinkling lights and unexpected twists and turns.

As you sit down in a dining room teeming with trees and simple iron-clad candles that invite you to make your way through the woods in search of adventure, it's impossible not to feel like the story is just beginning with the first surprise amuse-bouche (in our case, a rosemary bush studded with crispy cabbage and a bowl of mustard foam). From that first bite, your eyes open in bewilderment as you anxiously await the next surprise to hit your palette.

And at Høst, the surprises just keep coming. From parsley oil served alongside specially-requested gluten-free bread, to fish swimming under a foamy cover of the most fragrant melted cheese, or a pre-dessert ice cream that tastes of sour milk and cherries and days spent lazing by a Danish fruit orchard, we were constantly left guessing what else lay in store behind the doors of the Høst kitchen.

And like every good Nordic story, the journey into the minds of these chefs was also frightening at times. A bowl full of black lava rocks was the bedrest for a hollowed bone, the perfect receptacle for a single potato chip topped with the silkiest fish; splashes of sour cherry dust made our dessert look like the aftermath of an unfortunate encounter with a troll. And yet each bit, each allegory to a fairytale moment also felt like the warmest embrace - the true embodiment of Scandinavian hospitality.

Høst was the adventure of a lifetime - one that we would gladly repeat again and again."

Downtown, Christianhavna, biking, and the canals

A cyclist rides on an elevated pathway in this Copenhagen travel guide scene, surrounded by modern office buildings. The overcast sky adds a grey tint to the surroundings, while one building prominently displays "SEB C" signage.

A modern pedestrian and cyclist bridge gracefully curves over a canal, connecting two urban buildings. The glass facade of one structure mirrors the overcast sky, capturing the essence of Copenhagen's charm. Construction cranes and a parked van are visible in the distance, completing this travel guide scene.

A cobblestone path winds alongside a waterfront, framed by a graffiti-covered building on the right. Tram tracks are embedded in the stones, while modern buildings stand across the water under a cloudy sky. Discover this urban scene in our Copenhagen travel guide.

The next day, bright and early, F and I set out on our rented bikes to explore Copenhagen. We rode on the Cykelslangen, or Cycle Snake; continued past the open-air Havnebadet Islands Brygge, where people were bathing even in the deep of winter; stopped for coffee with whipped cream at Kafferiet in Christianshavn, and then we parked our bikes for a stroll through Christiania (more on that later).

Copenhagen Street Food Market

A serving of loaded fries topped with pickled red onions, sauce, and meat sits on a pink paper wrap on a wooden table. Beside it, in a cozy Copenhagen restaurant setting, there's a small foil dish filled with red sauce—an essential stop in any Copenhagen travel guide.

After our visit to Christiania, we continued along the canal to PapirØen - Copenhagen Street Food market. This hanger-housed street market was a colorful gathering of little artisanal food halls offering the best bites from all over the world.

We had a blast strolling through it and picking our favorites, finally settling on pulled duck with frites from Duck It (though a quick internet search now shows me I should have also tried the duck fat fries from Copper & Wheat).

Alas, when looking for information on PapirØen now, I was disheartened to find it closed! But worry not, you can find many of the same incredible food stalls in the newly christened Copenhagen Street Food Market, Reffen.

Don't skip this cornucopia of deliciousness on your next visit to Copenhagen. (If you're looking for the Netflix-famous Hija de Sanchez taqueria, this isn't the market it's at - you'll have to head to Torvehallerne, which we didn't do.)

Favorite Stops in Downtown Copenhagen:

Downtown, Christianhavn and the canals favorite stops: Cykelslangen, Havnebadet Islands Brygge, the whole route along the canals.

Downtown, Christianhavn and the canals favorite eats: Kafferiet in
Christianshavn, Duck It, PapirØen (now Reffen).

Freetown Christiania

Colorful murals adorn trailers beside a brick building with scaffolding, evoking the gritty urban atmosphere often highlighted in Copenhagen travel guides. The artwork features abstract designs and figures in vibrant costumes, complemented by graffiti on the building.

Under the famous helix spire of the Church of Our Saviour lies the entrance into Freetown Christiania. Arguably even more famous than Copenhagen itself, Freetown Christiania is the hippie enclave that declared itself a city-within-a-city. Which has been surviving under its own autonomous rule of anarchist law and order since 1971, when a group of hippies took over an abandoned army barracks and turned it into a squat.

First known for its Green Lights District - a zone where cannabis was once freely, though not exactly legally, sold - Christiania has since become known for its permissive politics. Its absolute insistence on pacifism and the lack of violence, and the uninhibited atmosphere it provides for artists, musicians and writers to create all kinds of work.

Christiania is home to 850 people, including old hippies, families and young people, runaways and those seeking to permanently follow an alternative lifestyle. We were there during the morning. We were quite low on cash, otherwise we would have been happy to try a sampling of the many restaurants and cafes available here, all for comparably low prices (however, cards weren't accepted anywhere that we've seen).

A tall brick church tower with a golden spire reaches into Copenhagen's cloudy sky, surrounded by bare tree branches at its base. Several small round windows and a clock adorn the tower, while telephone wires create a quaint scene in this charming travel guide vista.

In this Copenhagen travel guide, discover a wavy, colorful mosaic wall gracing a large brick building with arched windows. Red signs reading "Restaurant" and "Spiseloppen" stand out amid graffiti. The surrounding grassy area is charmingly unkempt.

I personally loved the atmosphere of freedom and lack of rules in Freetown Christiania, even if I got a serious headache after a 2-hour walk through it.

Don't feel comfortable wandering around here by yourself or simply would like more context? In that case, there are $10 60- to 90-minute guided tours of Christiania running daily at 1pm and 3pm from late June to the end of August, or 3pm on weekends only from September to late June. Tours set out from just inside Christiania's main entrance on Prinsessegade.

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Favorite Stops in Christiania:

Freetown Christiania's favorite stops: Church of Our Saviour, anywhere your heart desires (we just went wandering around and loved exploring the different nooks and crannies).

Freetown Christiania's favourite eats areMorgenstedet and Grønsagen for vegans, Månefiskeren for coffee, Spiseloppen for everything else, and Bastionen + Løven and Restaurant 56° for higher-end Danish and Nordic cuisine.

Nyhavn in Denmark

One of Copenhagen's most famous sites (and sights) is Nyhavn. The original port of Copenhagen, this 17th-century site has become a colourful banner for the city. It is one of the most recognizable waterfront tourist attractions around.

The good news is that it's just as cute and picturesque as you'd imagine. The bad news is that it's crawling with tourists and, on warm days, can become almost untraversable. That being said, I would still recommend a day trip here, albeit brief.

The Original Noma

A large sailing ship docked by the waterfront draws your attention in this Copenhagen travel guide, with its reflection shimmering on the water's surface. The scene is completed by an old brick warehouse with red roof tiles under a partly cloudy sky, capturing the city's vibrant maritime heritage.

After our delicious lunch at Duck It, F and I continued on our bikes down towards Nyhavn. On the way there, we came across an unexpected bonus: the original building that housed one of the world's most lauded restaurants, Noma.

I got a special kick out of seeing this picturesque location, enjoying the views of the boats, and imagining myself dining in this Michelin-starred establishment. Since our visit, Noma 2.0 has reopened in another location, and I hope that one day I will be lucky enough to visit it!

A stone church with a tall spire pierces the cloudy Copenhagen sky. In the foreground, a fountain showcases sculptures of animals and figures, embodying the city's charm. Cars line the street on the left side, offering a quintessential scene from any Copenhagen travel guide.

A person strolls down a cobblestone path flanked by red brick buildings with white windows, capturing the essence of a scene right out of a Copenhagen travel guide. The sky is overcast, and a single small tree is visible in the background.

Kastellet

The Copenhagen Citadel is one of the world's best preserved fortresses, an impressive star-shaped fortress that was built in 1626 to guard the Danish King Christian IV. Today, it houses military barracks and offices, an arguably less impressive task... But the area of the Kastellet provides a beautiful walk and is considered one of the city's best green spaces.

The Little Mermaid Statue

A statue of a mermaid sits atop a large rock by the water's edge, with an industrial harbor visible in the background. The sky is overcast, and the water is calm—a perfect scene for any Copenhagen travel guide seeking to capture the city's unique blend of nature and industry.

Just past the Kastellet was another of my anticipated sights: the statue of Hans Christian Andersen's most famous creation, the Little Mermaid. Andersen was a prolific Danish author who is responsible for an absurd (Wikipedia states it as 3381!) a number of the world's most well-known fairytales, including a few of my favorites: The Little Match Girl, The Snow Queen and, of course, the heart-breaking Little Mermaid (any relation to the Disney classic is completely accidental).

Having shed a fair number of tears over the pages of Andersen's books, and imagined the Little Mermaid's likeness a myriad of times, standing next to the famous statue was a special experience that the child in anyone would have appreciated.

Wide cobblestone square with uniformed guards walking in formation, a scene right out of a Copenhagen travel guide. In the background, there's an equestrian statue and four grand buildings with classic architecture. The sky is overcast.

Kobenhavn K

A large stone-domed building with an ornate green copper roof stands prominently in this Copenhagen travel guide. The structure showcases classical architecture with columns and intricate detailing. Cars are parked in front, and people walk across the crosswalk leading to the entrance.

The last part of our bike tour through Copenhagen was Kobenhavn K, the oldest part of Copehagen (you may also be interested in checking out the other Kobenhavn K, a fabled vintage shop).

The impressive Amalienborg Palace is home to Denmark's royal family, and the actual place where the current queen still resides. We happened upon it just in time for the changing of the guard ceremony, and stood in awe for a few minutes as the perfectly coordinated soldiers did their rounds (well, F stood in awe - I was too busy snapping photos).

We cycled past Frederiks Kirke (Frederik's Church), also known as the Marble Church for its impressive marble-clad interior. As the sun's rays bounced off the church's magnetic copper rooftop, I took in a breath and caught a moment to appreciate all the beauty we had witnessed in just a short day.

Mountain Dwelling & 8 House

After returning our bikes to our hostel, F and I continued in the car to our two last sights in Copenhagen: Bjarke Ingels' creations, Mountain Dwellings and the 8 House.

First learning of Bjarke Ingels and his works on the Netflix show Abstract, we immediately fell in love with the unique creations that manage to balance clean Danish design with nature, modern comfort and the illusive concept of hygge, normally absent in modernist design. We were excited to see them in person during our visit to Copenhagen.

Exploring the Mountain Dwelling

A modern, angular building with a green roof and exterior greenery stands next to a wide paved area with outdoor seating, perfect for any Copenhagen travel guide. A narrow path lined with bare trees is visible on the right, under a cloudy sky.

A short drive from the city, Mountain Dwellings is a suburban project unlike any other. It consists of 80 apartments spread across 11 floors, all of which have their own backyard and parking spots. How is that possible, you'd ask? By placing the entire building atop of a giant parking garage.

As the floors climb up and apartments scale the diagonally sloping roof, they create an artificial, south-facing 'mountainside' where each apartment has its own secluded corner of vegetation. Oh, and each apartment's "bakcyard" also comes with a built-in roof garden, with plants changing per the seasons.

The gardens are watered through a huge central watering system, thus reducing the risk of eyesores and uncared-for spaces. Seeing this in person was truly humbling, and believe me that my explanation does not do the project justice.

A modern, cubic apartment complex stands beside a canal on a cloudy day, perfect for exploration in a Copenhagen travel guide. The building boasts staggered balconies. A crane is visible in the background, with a narrow waterway and lush greenery completing the picturesque scene.

8 House

Aerial view of a modern, triangular apartment complex in Copenhagen with large glass windows and unique architecture. The courtyard features geometric greenery shapes. The sky is cloudy, offering a dramatic backdrop for this highlight in any travel guide to the city’s architectural marvels.

Next, it was onto the 8 House. Like Mountain Dwellings; the Bjarke Ingels Group has once again played with definitions of private/public space, green space, and continuity/infinity. The 8 House is akin to a long racetrack that curves into the shape of a bowtie, 61,000 sqm in size, allowing people to bike all the way from the street up to its 10th-level penthouses alongside terraced gardens.

It's a mixed-use project that takes a traditional neighborhood and flips it on its head. Rather than having all the ingredients of a vibrant urban block lined neatly side-by-side, the 8 House "stacks all ingredients of a lively urban neighborhood into horizontal layers of typologies connected by a continuous promenade and cycling path up to the 10th floor".

One can walk the length of the entire "neighbourhood" without ever entering an elevator or even getting off their bicycle. In the heart of it, all is one giant communal courtyard where neighbors actually - gasp! - have contact with one another.

A large, modern residential building with a sloped roof and multiple balconies is shown. The courtyard features a neatly designed garden with pathways. Reflecting the charm often highlighted in a Copenhagen travel guide, the surrounding area includes more apartment buildings under a gray, cloudy sky.

Time to Plan Your Own Trip to Copenhagen

Suffice to say, I was mightily impressed with both projects - and I'm sure it comforts you to know I have interests other than food.

Explore this waterside modern building in our Copenhagen travel guide. Featuring a large flat roof with smoke emanating from chimneys, it sits beside a tranquil body of water. Enjoy views of cloudy skies and distant industrial structures that complement the city's unique blend of architecture.

Now, if you've made it to the bottom of this lengthy post, one thing is clear - I truly enjoyed my visit to Copenhagen. This lively, modern city is entirely of idiosyncrasies and opposites, low and high-class moments, old and new buildings, and interior spaces that are just as green as any forest.

It's a dense, compact urban center that can be seen in one very full day, or taken in slowly over the span of a week. If you're looking for a modern European city that is as inspiring as it is delicious, Copenhagen is it.

Other Festive European Trips

We loved our romantic getaway to Germany in Christmastime. To see glimpses into a previous trip to Germany, look here. You can also go more in-depth into German Christmas markets. You can also plan a trip to see the best Christmas markets across Europe in general. Or go learn more about Christmas traditions in Netherlands!

Have you been to Copenhagen? Planning a trip there yourself? Share your thoughts in the comments below, or join the discussion on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter.

My Food and Travel Guide to Copenhagen